Portsmouth, NH: Black Trumpet Bistro
Let's Eat by Kitty Kaufman
![trumpet](images/black_trumpet_11.jpg)
We're overlooking the Piscataqua River from upstairs in the bar. Even though it's early on Saturday night, the room is hopping. Roseanna starts with Loire Domaine du Grand Moulin Touraine Sauvignon Blanc that's dry and crisp. Jim orders a Sonoma Wellington Cabernet Sauvignon. As for me, I'm on the wagon. Black Trumpet sets our evening with grown-up Great American songbook music. The early crowd, since early is what you will be with no reservation, doesn't seem to notice Satchmo and Dean. That's okay, I do and by six, every seat has been taken.
![trumpet duck](images/Black_trumpet_1.jpg)
![trumpet squish](images/Black_trumpet_2.jpg)
Who's your bread checker? Roseanna is ours and really, don't you think it's helpful to have something to cushion that dirty martini? Or do martini drinkers think bread is just for kids? The rolls are mysterious; we have no idea what they are but we like what could be corn meal maybe?
![trumpet cod](images/Black_trumpet_5.jpg)
![trumpet steak](images/Black_trumpet_3.jpg)
Contrasts we can go for: the room is old, the food is very new. It's formal service without tablecloths and someone could make a case for filtered water. The crowd is fashionable with music that never goes out of style. Without a hitch it all works and we are ready for our closer. Someone says "Let's do pine nut and almond butterballs with warm fruit sitting in cashew cream with salt." Of course. Um, it's very healthy.
Jim never settles for one dessert which I think happens when the first one is fruit. The second is exciting in a way that fruit will never be. He picks the chocolate caramel tart with candied almonds. Now you're talking: burnt sugar, not sweet or salty chocolate in a buttery crust, whipped cream or is it nougat, and nuts that got rolled and I am out of words. Roseanna, who's been in cooking school all summer, has a lot to say. Me too and my notes are all sticky. Two desserts? Of course, doesn't everyone and you know this modern menu's going to change. So as someone sang years ago . . . get it while you can.
Black Trumpet Bistro
29 Ceres Street
Portsmouth, NH
603. 431. 0887
© 2016 Kitty Kaufman is a writer in Boston.
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Kitty@corp-edge.com
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Kitty@corp-edge.com
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